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04-08-2019, 10:27 AM | #134 | |
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It seems everyone goes through the same drill..... 1st they do a software reload, then they clean/lube the window path and mechanism, then they replace motors. Mine went in three times under warranty for the issue in the first year and then no problems for the next six years. If I understand the system correctly the motor gives feedback (it's a selsyn) and when resistance is encountered before it reaches "home" it reverses. So if have to keep synching the same window it's either a gummed up mechanism or the motor. My new 2 series hasn't had the problem in 1 1/2 years. |
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04-08-2019, 12:04 PM | #135 |
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As a couple others have posted here (including BDO's 640i) and another thread, I've never experienced the problem while the car is moving (even parking lots speeds). Since 2011 I've gotten into the habit of closing the windows when pulling up to my driveway, or backing into my garage.
If I park the car with the windows open, I'll have this problem 8 or 9 out of 10 times (makes no difference with engine running or not). I saw this tip in this forum and after hearing about all the failed fixes (motors, software, etc), I found it easier to adjust my driving habits to resolve the problem. |
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07-03-2019, 12:37 PM | #136 | |
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11-01-2019, 12:40 AM | #137 | |
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I get similar issues with the boot release, sometimes I need the engine running for the release to fully "pop", as sometimes it sounds like it only releases 1/2 way, not allowing the boot to open. I feel like what we're seeing is a voltage issue with the window regulator, in that there is some correlation between the voltage produced at idle and the window problem. This would go some ways to explain why you never get the issue when driving. How to fix this on the other hand, I've no idea, since there aren't any other electrical issues with the car. |
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03-18-2020, 06:07 PM | #138 |
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This fixed mine. I waxed the window, inside and out, all the way to the rubber. Car polish wax, the wax that you use on the paint finish. The windows are experiencing resistance and reversing. Just relieve the resistance, and it goes all the way down and all the way up as intended. Also, make sure that your battery is getting fully charged and healthy, in good condition.
This is all a combination of sensitive safety resistance, erratic power to the motor, resistance in the window regulator and electrical variances. When your car is moving, it's not only providing better electrical than from sitting idle, but it's vibrating, making the window less likely to experience resistance. The solution is to do everything that you can do to relieve resistance. BMW did everything that they could to make these doors rattle free, especially in the convertible that I have. The problem arises in tighter tolerances. This causes more resistance. And malfunction. Wax your window. I've had electrical problems with an old battery that tested okay, but just wasn't up to snuff in use. Jimmy Last edited by trickstar; 03-18-2020 at 06:22 PM.. |
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05-18-2021, 07:42 PM | #139 |
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I've had this problem on both windows of my 135 since I bought it. Tried the reset. I have to "chirp" them up. But I discovered that if I close the windows while the car is moving forward, no problem. It only happens at full stop. Very strange, but we all learn to live with BMW window regulator/motor idiosyncracies.
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05-22-2021, 08:53 PM | #140 | |
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12-10-2021, 12:58 PM | #141 |
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I have this problem on drivers side. Window reverses back down when trying to raise it. I have noticed that if I put my hand on the window and "help" it up it works much more reliably.
So that jives with most of the other info in this thread. Low voltage to motor, or sticky window guides or sticky window regulator or tired motor/strain meter all seem like potential causes for this. Motor is easier to replace than the regulator so I'll try that first. Perhaps some graphite in the window channel at the same time. Pete |
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12-15-2021, 04:34 AM | #143 |
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Mine does this from time to time. Just hit the switch again and hold it until it goes all the way up
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05-27-2022, 11:38 PM | #144 |
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05-28-2022, 11:22 AM | #145 |
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Now, after a while, about ten years in my case, the waxing of the window isn't enough. You can remove the door panel and spray the window channel guides, rollers, bearings and moving parts with silicone spray. At this point, the decade old rubber and felt are going to need as much help and consideration as possible.
Now, I never have issues with the window stopping mid cycle. But, at some point, I know that I will. This is just regular maintenance for me. I had the problem years ago, like many owners. Now, when it starts happening again, I do through the procedure list. Waxing the window, which is the easiest. Spraying silicone down the channels without removing the door panel. Checking the health and charge of the electrical system, trying it with the engine running and with a bit of an rpm rev over idle. If it's STILL not working, disassemble the door and spray the internals. Also, remember that if you're testing it over and over, that the motor is going to get hot, and possibly go into a protection mode, and stop working until if cools down. I hope that someone has been able to use this information to make their situation work better. Your friend, Jimmy |
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05-28-2022, 11:26 AM | #146 |
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The same wax that you use on your paint, car polish, wax. Wax the entire window, inside and outside of the car. Get some silicone spray lubricant and spray down the channels of the window guides. See my previous post about removing the door panel and spraying the moving parts with silicone spray, if it still sticks
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09-09-2024, 10:52 PM | #147 |
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I recently started having the window problems described in this thread on my 2008 Coupe. I reset the limits but that did nothing. I had the shop reset the limits and that also did nothing. The tech said I should replace the window motor which I did and the problem is solved.
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09-22-2024, 01:09 PM | #148 |
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Is it possible to code out the anti-trap in the window to see if the problem is that simple?
I have this on my drivers window. Pretty sure I can safely avoid sticking an arm out the window and rolling it up without the software “assistance”. |
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