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03-25-2015, 01:17 AM | #23 |
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I think someone here, said it best, along the lines of...
the engine is gold. the supporting parts (i.e. water pump, charge pipe) could be better.
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03-25-2015, 06:25 AM | #24 | |
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03-25-2015, 06:41 AM | #25 |
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As with any engine, babying it is not a good idea. If you need to do that, there was no need for you to buy a BMW. Get a Kia..
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03-25-2015, 07:11 AM | #26 |
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+1
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03-25-2015, 08:09 AM | #27 | |
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03-26-2015, 06:47 PM | #29 |
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By the time my engine fluids reach 100C (212F) I'm already where I need to be aside from the odd time where I just drive nowhere for the fun of it
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Model: '08 135i N54 6AT Coupe ///M Sport - E85 + 93 = E30
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03-27-2015, 07:59 AM | #30 |
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Based solely on common sense rather than science or engineering knowledge I keep mine under 3k RPM's until it reaches something close to steady-state temp (this could take a while in the winter here in CT).
Then I drive it enough normally which is for me a mix of babying and fun.
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03-27-2015, 08:01 AM | #31 | |
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REALLY need to take the car out and high speed cruise to clean the carbon out. |
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03-27-2015, 09:41 PM | #32 |
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Why 3k what is the significance of 3k. I usually take it easy until the needle starts to move but easy for me occasionally means between 3-4k. I find it near impossible to drive under 3k without being an obstacle for everyone else on the road.
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03-28-2015, 07:44 AM | #33 |
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The reason to get the oil temperature up is to get full lubrication. A significant amount of wear is on cold starts. The engine is turning and the lubrication is not close to fully functional. This improves a lot when oil pressure is reached - fractions of a second - and then further improves as temperature increases and oil viscosity decreases. The difference between off and 10 seconds of running is large. The benefits of further temperature increases come much more gradually. It is one of those typical exponential curves.
We usually measure wear on cars by miles. But it isn't a terribly accurate measure for engines. If you do the same number of miles at twice the rpms, the engine will obviously be more worn. But if you keep the car in a garage so it warms up quicker wear is less. And if you live in a warmer climate so you get lubrication sooner after starting the motor, that also decreases wear. Lugging, opening he throttle too much at low rpm, can rapidly damage rod bearings especially if the engine is cold. Much better to let the rpm be consistent with the load (higher rpm for higher load). So there are several variables only some of which we can control. Higher rpm does increase wear but I still use it whenever I need to. We didn't buy micro cars with 1.5l engines. We should enjoy them and not worry about wear. But delaying maximum revs and load until the engine warms up a little is wise and not pushing constantly for maximum acceleration will lengthen lifetime.
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03-30-2015, 07:36 AM | #34 |
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For me 3k is just a number with no real significance, just a generally low number.
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04-01-2015, 08:11 AM | #35 |
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I have rebuilt 3 engines for grassroots motorsports (autoX and open track), and although I have never broken an engine (knock on wood) I have always been careful with pointless RPM. If you know the power curve; the spread between peak torque and peak HP (cam), stay in that range. With modern OEM ignition controls you should not have a problem exceeding the max recommended RPM.
I have heard of engines throwing a rod on high RPM decel, perhaps due to a lean situation on the piston from a lack of (cooling) fuel. If you want to be sure always run a quality aftermarket oil pressure gauge, and fuel pressure guage if injected. A well maintained factory motor (adequate fuel and oil pressure) will run a good long time in competition, assuming too you don't overheat it.
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04-01-2015, 01:42 PM | #36 |
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04-01-2015, 01:49 PM | #37 |
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I actually brought that up as an option for when I got my oil change recently. The tech at the indy I go to for work (who actually builds and races E30s professionally) advised against it because he thinks it's too thin of an oil when he handles it, doesn't believe that it can have good lubrication properties, so I went with 5-30 Mobil 1 oil instead on the safe side. I was considering a 0-40 oil possibly. He actually said a 40w oil could be a solid option if I notice my engine oil temps going too far above 250, but for a DD he says it could be unnecessary since I don't currently plan to track my car for events or anything like that.
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Model: '08 135i N54 6AT Coupe ///M Sport - E85 + 93 = E30
Mods: AA DPs + Gen I - BMS JB4 (Race + Map 2) + DCI + OCC - Cobb CP - ///M RSFB + Front Control Arms - Koni Yellow - Swift Spec R - Vorshlag camber plates - MPSS 225/255 - x-ph Angel Eyes 160w |
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04-01-2015, 02:12 PM | #38 | |
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Mobil 1 5W-30 is not LL-01 approved, so the wrong oil was used for your car. Last edited by Iron Man; 04-01-2015 at 02:25 PM.. |
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